From Palmer to Seward; Two Days on the Road

The View from Arctic Valley Road

Friday and  Saturday were pretty awesome.  Most of it was car-birding: Drive for a while then stop and bird near the car.  The scenery was just spectacular.  I saw one "postcard" vista after another.  Majestic, snow-covered mountains towered above me, their peaks shrouded in clouds.  Entire valleys stretched out in front of me from my vantage point near the top of one mountain.  In one valley I encountered the most gorgeous, most peaceful spot imaginable.  And then I walked in snow just for the fun of it!

Gray Jay

Friday started out with a drive along Arctic Valley Road near Anchorage. The road climbs high above a military base, and I didn't stop until I reached a spot just below the tree line.  The birding was slow in terms of numbers, but I found some really nice birds anyway.  In one spot was a Fox Sparrow, in another was a Gray Jay.  And high above the mountain top was a Golden Eagle, a bird I have long wished to see.

The drive was memorable for another reason.  I was wandering up the road about 50 yards from my car.  I looked back and there was something I didn't recognize ... a big dog?   a small deer?  I raised my binoculars to get a better look.  Holy mackerel!  It was a lynx!  A gorgeous cat from the same genus as the bobcat.  But it's a bit funky looking.  It has no tail and big floppy feet (the better to walk across snow).  It also has two little ear tufts that seemed to curl a little.  Really cool!  But all of these details occurred to me only later.  I have to admit that two thoughts hit me almost simultaneously.  First was, "Wow, that's a great looking cat!"  That was followed immediately by, "That big, honking cat is between me and my car.  This could get serious!"  Fortunately, the cat looked at me and thought, "Boring!" before sauntering away.

Boreal Chickadee in the center of the picture

Next I headed out to the Eagle River Nature Center.  I had no idea what to expect from this place.  I had just heard that it was "pretty."  Understatement of the century.  It was spectacular.  The river cuts a path through the Chugach Mountains, creating an idyllic setting at the bottom of the trail.  I sat in one spot for a while watching the Violet-green Swallows put on a fabulous aerial display and enjoying the serenity.  Then I heard a weird sound from just over my shoulder -- Boreal Chickadee!!  Next I wandered down the path to an observation platform.  It was incredibly beautiful and peaceful.  I thought I could spend forever sitting there enjoying the view.  Then I thought, "Wait, it snows A LOT here ... Never mind."

The day ended with a trip up to Palmer and along Maud Road to its end at a lovely lake.  Again, the birding was slow, but I did get a nice look at an Alder Flycatcher.  And at the end of the road on the mountain way above me I spotted a flock of Dall Sheep.  Very cool.

Harlequin Duck

On Saturday I made the drive down to Seward.  What could easily have been a two hour drive turned into an all-day affair as I stopped in numerous places along the way to bird and to soak up the scenery.  Unfortunately, I also got a big smudge on the lens of my camera that I didn't notice until evening, so many of my photos didn't turn out as well as I had hoped.  Still, it was a terrific day and it held a few great birds along the way.  First was a Harlequin Duck climbing up the rocks above the cold waters of Turnagain Arm.  A bit later I found another Harlequin that was easier to photograph as well as an American Dipper, both beneath a bridge over Indian Creek.

American Dipper

A bit later, I finally made the turn and moved onto the Kenai Peninsula.  At one pull-off area I was thrilled to hear the air filled with bird calls.  Among them was a Boreal Owl.  I heard it repeatedly and got one fleeting glimpse as it flew off its perch and disappeared from view.  There were also Fox Sparrows, Varied Thrushes, Hermit Thrushes, a Pine Siskin, Wilson's Warblers, Yellow Warblers, and Wilson's Snipe.  Fabulous!

Farther down the road another pull-off presented even more gorgeous views and a terrific bird - a Golden-crowned Sparrow!  Could this day get any better?  Well, yes, it could.  A pond just south of the junction with Alaska 9 produced a Barrow's Goldeneye.  Another pond held some Red-necked Grebes and a nesting pair of Trumpeter Swans.  The Goldeneye (left) and the Swan (right) are pictured below.

The day ended with a terrific pizza at Christo's Palace in Seward.  The waiter was a fellow birder who gave me a few hints on some good local birds.  But I'll have to save them for another blog.

Barrow's Goldeneye

Trumpeter Swans at their nest