Bob's Gone Birding: Birding in Arizona and New Mexico: Phoenix to Madera Canyon

A View of Elephant Rock from Madera Canyon

Rosy-faced Lovebird

I had been told about the heat in Arizona: it may be hot, but the wall of heat that greeted me as I left the airport was downright oppressive. It was 103 and climbing, heading toward 110 or so that afternoon. And I couldn't escape to the mountains just yet. My first target bird was here in Phoenix at Encanto Park, so I would have to deal with the heat for a few hours at least.

A week earlier, Alachua County birder and world traveler Dotty Robbins had mentioned to me that the Rosy-faced Lovebird was now an ABA countable species and told me where to find it. I put the park address into my Garmin (That thing is SO valuable on a birding trip!), attached it to my rental Ford Expedition, and drove to the park. In the parking lot, I heard the birds before I got out of the car. I had my first lifer of the trip within seconds, and while I watched it, a Gila Woodpecker flew to a nearby palm tree - another life bird. This was happening fast! I had to root through my luggage to grab my binoculars, my camera, and a hat (Can't let that bald spot burn on Day 1!). I hoped that the rest of the trip would be as successful.

I drove to a Walmart in Mesa, bought some lunch supplies, a case of water, a couple of bags of ice and a large styrofoam cooler. I piled everything into the car, had some lunch and turned south on AZ 177. I had read that it might be possible to find a Streak-backed Oriole near a wash in Dudleyville. I didn't. But while I missed one possible lifer, I found four others. I saw my first Pyrrhuloxia on the road to town, a Verdin and a Black-tailed Gnatcatcher in the bushes along Dudleyville Road., and a Phainopepla on San Pedro Road. Then there was a flycatcher that puzzled me. I tried my best to figure it out, but had to let it go. Other birds around Dudleyville were a Yellow-breasted Chat, a Hutton's Vireo and a Black Phoebe. Overall, it was very birdy!

Black-throated Sparrow

In fact, it was even birdier than my next destination. I drove 12 miles into Aravaipa Canyon and found almost nothing. There was a Gambel's Quail, my seventh lifer of the day, but little else. Would all of the canyons be this disappointing?

No. After a night in Green Valley, I headed into Madera Canyon and one of the best birding experiences of my life. At Florida Wash, a Black-throated Sparrow sung from an eye-level perch affording me a long, clear look. Meanwhile, a Bell's Vireo constantly scolded anyone who came near. Eventually, I saw it settle into a nest, so I backed away. A Zone-tailed Hawk soared above the canyon, and then I saw a flash of color fly across the road and into a heavy thicket. I stared between the branches and saw some blue. Then I saw a bit of red. Eventually, the little beauty flew up for just a moment. It was a gorgeous Varied Bunting - my 500th ABA bird!

Varied Bunting, ABA #500

A bit farther south I pulled into the Proctor Road parking lot. This is a really beautiful area. Towering agaves surrounded the information kiosk and restrooms. Hummingbirds darted in and out of their flowers, eluding my feeble hummer ID skills, but then a Magnificent Hummingbird perched up long enough for me to be satisfied that I knew what I was seeing. An Arizona Woodpecker flew into a tree just a few feet away, and some patience afforded me a great look at it. The adjacent trail was also terrific. Plenty of shade and lots of birds make for a great walk. A Canyon Towhee darted around the ground in one area while a Scott's Oriole sang from a tree top in another. Lesser Goldfinches chased their mid-day snacks through the leaves, and a Western Tanager posed like a a supermodel on an exposed branch. A Plumbeous Vireo displayed its spectacles from a juniper tree.

Next I explored the Madera Picnic Area. Noisy Mexican Jays dashed through the trees, clambering as they searched the tall grass for food. Equally noisy Acorn Woodpeckers seemed to be competing with the Jays for the loudest species award. A Bridled Titmouse showed up, and I heard but couldn't find a Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher. I searched for some time to no avail. Darn, that was a bird I really wanted!

Broad-billed Hummingbird

The Santa Rita Lodge is just a little farther along Whitehouse Canyon Road. It's a fantastic spot for birders. I bought a cold drink and a Klondike bar, and sat outside to watch the feeders do their magic. First I saw Black-chinned, Blue-throated and Broad-billed Hummingbirds. I had seen both species in the winter in Florida, so I was not prepared for how truly gorgeous they were. Iridescent colors sparkled in the sun. This is why hummingbirds are so addictive - and we get so few of them in the east. Meanwhile, a Black-headed Grosbeak joined a flock of House Finches at one of the feeders. Lesser Goldfinches swarmed all over another feeder and Wild Turkeys grazed below them. And then there was a stir among the birders. There on a feeder right in front of us was a Plain-capped Starthroat, a fairly rare visitor to the US from Mexico and a tremendous bird to add to my life list. I never did get a usable photo of it; I was too engrossed in watching it. Still, it was a stellar moment, on a par with that ABA #500 milestone.

Rufous-crowned Sparrow

In the Bog Spring parking lot, I ate a ham and cheese sandwich with a bottle of cold water while enjoying the car's air conditioning. This had already been a spectacular day, but I knew I had missed some species I had hoped to see. I really wanted that flycatcher I had missed, so I walked across the road to the Madera Picnic Area. Almost immediately I was surrounded by those raucous Mexican Jays, acting like teenagers on a high-spirited adventure. One stopped long enough for me to get the picture below. A Canyon Wren played along the dry bed of a small stream. Finally, the Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher perched overhead long enough for me to get a picture. It isn't the best photo (see below), but it's good enough to be diagnostic. Then another flycatcher caused a stir - a Dusky-capped was hunkered down among the leaves of a taller tree. I stared into the foliage long enough to get a decent view, but never got an acceptable photo.

Farther down the canyon, I stopped near Florida Wash again. This time the prize was a Rufous-crowned Sparrow, sitting high and singing well into the afternoon. This was my 18th lifer of the day, and it capped off an extraordinary birding day. Actually, the day's adventure wasn't quite complete, but I'll save that harrowing story for my next blog regarding my time in a small slice of New Mexico.